Very Dark Caramel Sauce (or Post Root Canal Dinner Part II)

If you followed my saga last week, you know I had a root canal and decided to indulge after the fact. I picked up Ciao Bella Chocolate Sorbet and Haagen-Daz Fleur de Sel Caramel Ice Cream on the way home; the perfect combo I thought to soothe my sore mouth. All ice cream is enhanced by a good homemade caramel sauce, in my opinion, and I happen to like mine extra, extra dark, bordering on bitter. It complements the sweet ice cream so well. So when I got home, I whipped up a batch. (I know this sounds improbable, but I left the endodontist at noon and I swear the novacaine anesthesia lasted until about 5:00pm. I felt great. Until then).

Very Dark Caramel Sauce

Makes about 2 cups

2 cups sugar

1/2 cup water

1 cup heavy cream, at room temperature

Combine sugar and water in deep, medium sized saucepan. Stir over medium heat until sugar dissolves. Increase heat and boil without stirring, occasionally brushing down sides of pan with wet pastry brush. Watch carefully for the moment when the sugar syrup just begins to color, about 7 to 10 minutes after it has come to a boil. Watch constantly at this point as the color will develop quickly. Watch as it changes from pale gold, to a rich amber color. Continue boiling and within a minute it will darken to a rich reddish brown, the color of a pecan. Allow it to go a few seconds further and the moment you get a whiff of burnt sugar, remove from heat. (See photo below. You want the color all the way on the bottom or at least between the last two).

Off heat, immediately pour cream over caramel. It will bubble up; just allow it to bubble and it will subside. Whisk gently until smooth. In the pitcher below I swirled the caramel and let it re-settle do that you can see the colors of the sauce.

Sauce may be used warm. Alternatively, cool to room temperature and store in refrigerator in airtight container for up to 1 month. Re-heat gently in microwave or on stovetop before serving. Serve with Your favorite ice cream, gelato or sorbet.

Post Root Canal Dinner Part I

Last week I had an emergency root canal. I had a toothache for a day or so, but it didn't occur to me what it was until about 3:30am last Tuesday when I was contemplating taking my own tooth out. Either that or a trip to the emergency room to ask them to just knock me out. The pain was intolerable and I'm not really sure how I made it through the night. By 10:30am on Wednesday (when I had secured the appointment with the endodontist by literally crying on the phone with the receptionist) I was literally looking forward to the long numbing needles and having my roots drilled out. I kid you not. The procedure was completely pain free - the joys and result of 6 shots of novacaine.

So I felt just in spoiling myself for the rest of the day. I stopped at Whole Foods on the way home and bought some wild-caught sockeye salmon, some English peas and oyster mushrooms. (I also bought some Ciao Bella Chocolate Sorbet and Haagen-Daz Fleur de Sel Caramel ice cream, but that will be discussed in Part II another day). Then I stopped at my friend's garden and picked flat-leaf parsley and chives. I spied some nasturtiums and spontaneously picked a few. I had Yukon Gold potatoes at home; I was ready to cook.

The idea began with thinking of soft, easy-to-chew foods. My mind went immediately to mashed potatoes. Needing a protein, I thought of salmon, both for its pretty color and health benefits. The peas came along because I needed a veggie and some color. The mushrooms were a last minute addition because I saw them at the store and immediately decided their velvety quality would enhance the rest. Ta Da! The perfect dinner for after oral surgery, or anytime you would like some comfort - and comforting - food.

Mashed Potatoes, Salmon, Mushrooms and Peas

Serves 2

About 2 ounces Oyster Mushrooms

About 4 medium Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and quartered

3 large handfuls of English pea pods (yields about 3/4 cup peas)

3/4 to 1 pound sockeye salmon filet

Extra-Virgin Olive Oil

Peppercorns

Salt

Pepper

About 4 chives, snipped

Small bunch of flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped

Nasturtiums (if they happen to be around. They add a peppery bite)

Separate the oyster mushrooms from their thick, connected stem end. Roughly chop

and saute lightly in a nonstick skillet with olive oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside. No need to clean pan before using for salmon.

Place the salmon filet skin side down in same nonstick skillet. Add water to come about halfway up the side of the fish. Drizzle some olive oil in there. Throw in a few peppercorns and a few stalks of parsley and a sprinkle of salt. Simmer until edges begin to turn opaque. Carefully flip fish over and continue to poach in simmering liquid until just done. I like to keep the salmon very moist and undercooked a bit.

Meanwhile place potatoes in pot with salted water to cover and simmer vigorously until tender. About 2 minutes before they are done, throw in the peas. Drain potatoes and peas, reserving cooking liquid. Add potatoes and peas back to pot and mash, adding back some reserved cooking liquid, a good dose of olive oil, salt and pepper until they are a consistency you like. Fold in the mushrooms.

Place a nice mound of mashed potato mixture on a plate. Flake the salmon and scatter about. Sprinkle with herbs and garnish with nasturtiums, if you like. Eat with a spoon. It makes the dish even more comforting that way.

Blueberries, Pie Crust and My Nana

Well we are halfway through the month, so I will take the glass-is-half-full approach and say YEAH there is plenty of time left to celebrate National Blueberry Month. Did you know that it has been a national month since 1999? If not, you have a lot of blueberry eating to catch up with:)

I love blueberries and always have and a lot of that has to do with the associations I have with my maternal Nana, Dora Rusitzky. I spent at least one month with her every summer during my entire childhood. She lived in South Dartmouth, MA just a very short walk from the beach, so this was an ideal situation for a New York City girl. As an aside, I always find it funny when upon learning that I grew up in Manhattan, that people assume I never got out of the inner city. Nothing could be further from the truth and my New England summers were luxurious stretches of time.

Nana Dora was strict. No "noshing" (snacking) allowed, which was the horrible part. Somehow I got by, I think by getting snacks behind her back with the aid of my Mom. But the great part involved Nana's cooking. She was a great, intuitive cook and baker and we always ate well (at proper meals), taking advantage of fresh fruits and vegetables - some from her garden - at nearly every meal.

But it is her blueberry pie that I lived for. To this day, a taste of blueberry pie is the taste of summer. Nana Dora also had a special way of making her crust. Much to the consternation of her interested family members, she, like so many old-fashioned bakers of her generation, never measured a thing. Eventually I got the gist of her measurements, but it was also the ingredients that were interesting. She liked to make her crust with vegetable shortening. No butter at all. The blue Crisco can was a constant. And she used orange juice as her liquid. I had never met anyone else who did this, nor have I till this day. She liked the flakiness that the acidity in the juice gave the crust, and it added some flavor as well. Her crust also had a fairly large amount of salt, which she determined was necessary with the bland flavor of the shortening.

Nana's Pie Crust

Makes 1, double crust for a 9 1/2-inch deep dish pie

2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt

1 cup chilled vegetable shortening

2 to 4 tablespoons cold orange juice

Measure flour and salt into a mixing bowl and place in freezer for 15 minutes.

Scatter shortening over dry mixture in tablespoon-sized pieces. Cut in using a pastry blender until shortening pieces are the size of large, flat grapes. Do not overwork.

Sprinkle the orange juice over the flour/shortening mixture. Toss in with two forks or fingertips until dough begins to come together.

Scrape dough onto lightly floured tabletop and knead briefly, just to bring the crust together in a ball. Divide into two pieces, roll into balls and flatten into disks. Wrap both in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least two hours or overnight. The crust may also be frozen for a week and defrosted in the refrigerator overnight.

Use as desired in your favorite double-crusted pie recipe....preferably blueberry.

When my friend's garden doesn't provide enough fruit, shopping at the farmer's market or the supermarket are fine options. This year, the Driscoll's blueberries in my market have been quite sweet and they even have an organic option.

Blueberry Pie

I prefer cultivated blueberries because that's what my Nana used. Please taste them first and adjust the sugar level. By the way, this makes a juicy pie; add more tapioca for a thicker, more "sliceable" filling texture.

Makes 1, 9 1/2-inch deep dish pie

Serves 8

1 recipe Nana's Pie Crust (see above)

8 cups blueberries, washed, sorted, any stems or leaves discarded

3/4 to 1 cup granulated sugar

1/4 cup instant tapioca

2 teaspoons lemon juice, freshly squeezed

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into large pieces

Coat a Pyrex 9 1/2-inch pie plate with nonstick spray. Roll out bottom crust to a 12-inch round and fit into pie plate. Refrigerate while assembling remaining ingredients.

Place berries in mixing bowl with sugar, tapioca and lemon juice. Toss to mix and let sit 15 minutes.

Pile fruit into pie crust. Dot with butter. Refrigerate while rolling out top crust.

Roll out top crust to a 13-inch round and place on top of berries. Seal top and bottom crusts and fold under; crimp edges. Make a steam vent (or 2 or 3). Freeze for 15 minutes while you preheat oven to 400 degrees F.

Place pie on parchment lined baking sheet. Place pie in oven, turn oven down to 375 degrees F and bake for 45 minutes. Check to see how pie is browning. Continue to bake for approximately 15 more minutes or until crust is golden brown and filling is bubbling.

Let cool on wire rack for 30 minutes to allow juices to thicken.

Serve warm, with or without Vanilla Ice Cream. Or, have a slice or breakfast with a dollop of thick Greek yogurt - my favorite summer morning treat.

Blueberries will be available for quite a while longer. Here is my friend's bush from just a few days ago. You can see that they have just begun to ripen.

My CBS Early Show Food Stylist Makes HER Debut!

Im sitting here this morning, waiting for an emergency root canal, so I turn on CBS and who is on The Early Show but my very own Marie Haycox! She is one of my favorite food stylists and helps me with ALL the food on my TV segments. They gave her her own segment today and she looked glamorous and was incredibly natural on TV. If you want to learn her tips and tricks to making your plates look as beautiful as ours always do on TV, check out Marie's Segment.

Here is a pic of Marie on the CBS kitchen set working on one of our Bon Appetit segments. Marie is on the right. Sue is our prop stylist, on the left.

Gooseberries!

Look at these beautiful berries from my friend’s garden (in central/western, MA). These are a pink /ruby colored variety and are sweet, not to mention gorgeous. Well, they are sweet as far as gooseberries go, which is on the tarter side of the berry spectrum. Not rhubarb tart, but many other varieties are equated to unripe grapes. These are like sweet grapes and could be nibbled right off of the vine. This type is related to edible currants (black, red and white) and is a member of the genus Ribes.Without getting too technical, there are varieties the color of green grapes, crimson-toned ones as I have here and others that are green with a hint of blush color. Some have small hairs, while some do not. Thankfully mine were "nude". Here's a pic of a single branch showing you how the berries proliferate on the plant.Below is a picture I found online of a green variety. Over the years I have seen the green types more often, so dont be surprised if these are the ones you come upon.This photo below shows one up close and you can see the stem end and the curly tail end - kinda like the curly tail ends of a green bean. In recipe directions it will often say “top and tail the gooseberries”, which refers to removing the stiffer stem (the "top") and the thin “tail”. This is not hard, but as you can imagine, is time consuming. If you are going to do it, just use the nails of your index finger and thumb to pinch them off.

This photo below and to the left shows the inside, which is quite seedy. Most recipes have you strain the cooked pulp. I do strain when cooking them, but I also like to eat them whole and raw. I liken them to strawberries with their seeds. The seeds are there, you are aware of them, but I enjoy them and consider them part of the gooseberry experience.

Here is a great big tip. I have found that if you are cooking them and know that you will be straining them after (which is really pressing the pulp firmly through a strainer), you can eliminate the topping and tailing prep as these hard bits will be retained by the strainer anyway and your pure, juicy pulp will fall down into your bowl.

If you are lucky enough to find some in a yard – or I have even heard of folks finding them in public parks – take advantage and make yourself a fool. Not into a fool! But make a fool, which is a simple English dessert of cooked crushed fruit and whipped cream. It is easy, light (in that deceptive way that desserts “lightened” with cream can be) and in this day and age, unusual.

Gooseberry Fool

The sugar will be to taste, as the gooseberries will vary so.

Serves 6 to 8

2 pounds gooseberries
2 tablespoons water
1/2 to 1 cup sugar
2 cups heavy cream

Separate individual berries from their branches, if necessary. Gently rinse and dry the berries. (Save a few whole berries for embellishment). Place berries and water in a deep saucepan and add smallest amount of sugar. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until mixture comes to a simmer. Total cooking time will be about 15 minutes. About halfway through, crush with a potato masher. You will know they are done when the mixture is homogenous and thickened and soft. Press through a strainer, discarding solids, reserving purée. Taste. If it is too tart, place back in pot with a bit more sugar and cook until sugar dissolves. Cool. This puree can be made a day ahead and refrigerated in an airtight container. Bring back to room temperature before proceeding. Right before serving, whip the cream until soft peaks form and fold in the puree until a few streaks still show (I think it looks prettier this way, which I exaggerated a bit for the picture). Gently spoon into glass goblets and crown with a few reserved berries, if desired.

If you have a surfeit of berries, try adding a handful to a berry crisp, crumble or pie. Or even toss a few into your morning oatmeal, as I was lucky enough to do this morning.

Speaking of oatmeal. Look for an upcoming blog about chewy steel-cut oats. My new morning favorite.

For the dog fans out there, I leave you with a pic of my bull terrier Beckett, who watched me take these photos out on our deck on this glorious July afternoon.

Come Cruise the Mediterranean with Me

ANCIENT WONDERS OF THE MEDITERRANEAN CRUISE – SPECIAL OFFER
September 11 to 21, 2009

Hi Folks,

As you know, one of the best ways to expand your culinary horizons is through travel. There is simply no better way to experience great cuisine than in its natural context. So, I wanted to give you a heads up about my travel plans for this coming September—in fact, I’m hoping you’ll be able to join me. From September 11 to 21, 2009, I’ll be sailing in style and comfort aboard the M.S. LE DIAMANT, an intimate, deluxe oceangoing vessel. Come with me as we cruise across the heart of Mediterranean exploring the culinary, archaeological and cultural treasures of coastal Italy, including Sicily and the legendary ancient Greek site of Delphi, before concluding on the beautiful shores of Turkey’s exquisite Ephesus, Troy and Istanbul. Throughout the journey, we’ll enjoy all sorts of opportunities for special tastings and tours, and I’ll discuss a broad variety of culinary topics during a special lecture series.

The genius of this particular itinerary is that it combines an array of optional culinary tours, meals and workshops with some of the region’s greatest cultural and historical treasures. So in between visits to the magnificent monuments of Rome, Florence and Ephesus, we’ll have the unique opportunities to explore great culinary traditions, including a special olive workshop in the hill country of Tuscany, a delectable lunch of cucina Romana and tour of the legendary Campo di Fiori market in Rome, and a specially arranged opportunity to bake fresh bread and feast on traditional delicacies with local residents of an ancient Turkish village.

I’m hoping to meet you in person! To further entice you, I’m delighted to say that you can receive an additional 10% off the Special Savings price! Here’s how: Just invite a family member or friend who is not already booked on the Ancient Wonders of the Mediterranean cruise, and receive your savings when they reserve one or more staterooms in addition to yours before August 12, 2009. And be sure to mention my blog when you call! You and your family/friends will each save 10% off the Special Savings price!* For more information, please click on the brochure cover and/or call Gohagan & Company, the premier tour operator of this grand culinary adventure, at 1-800-922-3088. They’ll be happy to fill you in with all the details.

See you on board!

Dédé

* In the event that the first-booked participant or the family/friend participant cancel once booked, the 10% per person discount will no longer apply to the remaining participants. Space is limited and contingent on availability.

Products I Am Loving! New and Not-So-New

#1 (Not-so-New) Silicone Pastry Brush

It has been years since I bought my first silicone pastry brush. In fact, I didn't buy one, I bought Ten! A few for me and several for gifts. The product excited me because its functionality was so superior. No more flavor transfer on the bristles (like BBQ sauce flavor in your apricot glaze) and no more bristles coming loose and settling on top of your pretty tarts! If you don't have one of these in your kitchen yet, you must get one - or two! I like the ones with very fine, flexible silicone "bristles". There are models with thicker, larger bristles, and those would be better for savory sauces. Check out these Danesco brand brushes below. I like the bright colors because they are easy to find in drawers, and storage containers. You can find them at Target, online, among other places.


#2 (Not-so-New) CDN Timer with Sound, Light and....Vibration!

When I was in my 20's and my brain was quick and sharp, I could have 3 or more items going at once and not need a timer - and I never burned anything. Now I have been known to forget about even one thing simmering on the stovetop or roasting in the oven. A timer is a must, and this one is simply the best I have ever encountered. First of all, its red, so it's easy to find. It has a strong magnet and also a clip, so you can attach it to clothing, or you can perch it on the counter where it can stand upright.
Now, most timers "sound off" and this one does too, with a nice loud staccato beep. But there is more, so much more. It also has a light, which flashes on and off and also a vibration setting - and you can choose 1, 2 or all 3 methods to work at once! But what I love is that you can pick and choose. So let's say you are hosting an extra fancy dinner party and you must keep tabs on your roast. Set this timer on vibration only and slip it into the pocket of your velvet lounging pants. While you are chatting away with guests, you will feel the vibrations and effortlessly excuse yourself to go to the kitchen. No loud sound interrupting the conversation! This is fabulous design at work. The light function works wonderfully for those hard of hearing or for those who would rather have a visual cue. It counts up, it counts down. You can set it for Hours/Minutes or Minutes/Seconds. It can go for 20 hours or 100 minutes. There is a Start and Restart function. Its made from ABS food-safe plastic and runs on AAA batteries and I don't even remember the last time I had to change them. You need this timer even if you have another one! I have bought these as presents, too and they always please the avid cook.


#1 (New Item) Cornstarch Packaging - Finally

I use cornstarch in everything from puddings, to dacquoise to savory dishes. Argo has been my go-to brand and it has traditionally come in that cardboard box, which you could not seal shut. It was also difficult to get the right amount out of the box in a clean manner. This post is not about a new food item - the cornstarch is great as always - but instead about a new package. Check out the pic below, which also shows the company's new packaging for baking powder:
It is now not only in an airtight, re-sealable container, but the wide opening allows for easy measuring, whether you need 1 tablespoon or 1/4-cup. It is also 100% recyclable. I will never buy cornstarch in a box again and I will be surprised if other companies don't follow suit. Look for Argo brand nationwide and Kingsford, which is the same company, with same packaging, in select areas of the western US.

#2 (New Item) "KitchenAid"-esque Flat Paddle Attachment

I tend to get a bit cocky and think that I am in-the-know when it comes to kitchen utensils and tools, especially when they have to do with baking. Well, my 23-year old daughter surprised me with a Christmas gift that I didn't even know existed - and I am so glad she brought this to my attention. Introducing the Beater Blade+:If you are familiar with the KitchenAid flat paddle attachment you will recognize that this is roughly the same shape, but this tool has the addition of what the company calls "wiper blades" along the edges. Indeed the edges are lined with rubber strips that act like rubber spatulas, continuously scraping the bottom of the bowl while the paddle rotates. It also reaches into the "dimple" at the bottom of the KitchenAid bowls! They are made in the USA and are UL Certified to ANSI and NSF2 Commercial Standards. I am In Love with mine. if you have a KitchenAid mixer, you Need this tool. Maybe two of them. The company makes them to fit tilt-head as well as lift models for KitchenAid as well as models for Cuisinart and Viking mixers. KitchenAid does not recommend this product. Here is the link:

#3 (New Item) Jewels! Sugar Jewels, That Is

Ahhhh ways to make your baked goods Gorgeous...EASILY! My great friend Beryl, of  www.beryls.com, brought these to my attention. On her site search for them under"Edible Sugar Diamonds and Gems". They come in "clear diamonds" as well as colors evoking Amethyst, Emeralds, Ruby, Turquoise and Topaz. Most look like they sound. I think the "Turquoise" looks even more like Sapphires. Perch one of these on a petit-fours or a cupcake and you have instant glamour. These will Wow the crowd at your next party.

#4 (New Item) Laser-Cut Cupcake Wrappers

Used to be that when someone said "cupcake" wrapper you thought of those fairly standard paper wrappers that you placed in the wells of your pan, to be filled with raw batter. These are a whole new idea. These are delicate, laser-cut "wrappers" that you should think of as "wrapping paper". You wrap them around your baked and cooled cupcakes as in the pictures below.


These are fabulous for weddings, wedding and baby showers, birthdays and holidays. They come in various colors and designs including snowflakes, stars of David, teapots, spider webs, sea shells, leaves, roses, hearts, a graduation design, a baby design and even choo-choo trains, among others.